Timeliness & Deliveries
Most roofing projects will be scheduled to begin 1-14 days after your authorization. This time frame does obviously fluctuate, depending on the weather and the season. We strive to deliver materials the day before or the same day the installation will begin so that you are spared any undue inconvenience of their placement in your driveway. Most roofs can be completed in 2-4 days. This depends on the product selected, the level of difficulty resulting from unforeseen situations such as poor roof foundation discovered after tear off, or other factors such as improper wiring. We do work on weekends if necessary. When we start an application, we rarely stop for any length of time unless we experience inclement weather.
We make every effort to make the large task of tearing off old roofing material as safe and as neat as possible. Therefore, we start from the top and go down the roof to eliminate excessive debris from falling into the attic on a wood shingle tear off. On low pitched roofs, debris can be thrown directly into the dump trucks if there is access. On steep roofs, debris must be thrown onto tarps and then hand loaded onto our dump trucks or trailers. When tarps must be used, we are careful not to leave a tarp on your grass for too long as it can yellow or even kill the grass underneath. On extremely steep roofs, we will need to take special precautions to eliminate or at least minimize excess landscaping disturbance. Consumers should also use extra care when entering or exiting the home.
Our professional crews are trained to tear off only what can be decked, felted and shingled in a day. When a crew is done for the evening, your roof will be tied-in at the ridge rows to provide a safe, water-tight transition in case inclement weather occurs during the night. On a personal note; our professional crews are the backbone of our company. Their quality, integrity and attention to detail is what differentiates us from our competitors. They own our respect and admiration for their abilities and perseverance. Roofing as a whole, is a very difficult and dangerous profession. A thank you and a smile for a job well done goes a long way, regardless of who you choose to use.
Damaged Decking & Structure Concerns (Found when installing a new roof.)
If an existing leak has caused the plywood to deteriorate, most of the time it can be seen before the installation of your new roof begins. There are times, however, when the damage will not be seen until the existing roof is removed. Our crews are trained to immediately inform us of any problem areas that are found during the installation process. Depending on the job application type and the severity of the damage, your consultant will contact you to discuss the repair options in detail.
A major situation or problem rarely – if ever – exists that your consultant could not have seen in his/her preliminary inspection. There are a few builders that use thin 3/8″ plywood, which may slightly sag between the roof rafters over time. The sagging is difficult to see with some old asphalt shingles and may be more visible after the installation of certain other styles. Our experienced consultants will discuss this with you in detail and make appropriate recommendations to minimize this situation.
OSB Board vs. Plywood (When installing decking on an old wood shingle roof.)
We realize most of you would expect us to say plywood is better. Sometimes it’s easier to sell plywood because it has been so regularly used in the past. However, after a thorough evaluation of the products available to homeowners, we believe that plywood is not always the best choice. OSB (Orientated Strand Board) is not a wafer board. It’s new epoxy adhesive meets all APA (American Plywood Association) and local building codes deck requirements. OSB is more structurally stable, and it will not warp or buckle like plywood when exposed to the elements. It costs less and also spares trees. We highly recommend OSB, but will use plywood at a homeowner’s request.
Moving Lathe Boards (When installing decking on an old wood shingle roof.)
Lathe boards are the 1″x 4″ boards onto which wood shingles are nailed. These boards, which run horizontally across your roof, are moved up or down to align underneath and help support horizontal butt joints in the decking. This is not a common procedure, but another step that shows our concern with true quality and sets us apart from our competitors.
The Consequence of Not Using Deck Clips
“H” style deck clips are used to ensure proper spacing between sheets of decking. This prevents the decking from buckling due to a series of humid days or as a result of foundation shifts due to moisture changes. Again, this is a quality issue that will save you money and affect the longevity and beauty of your investment. Unfortunately, many roofing companies do not adhere to these specifications. This is a small detail that can have large repercussions.
Somewhat misunderstood, felt paper’s primary function is as a vapor barrier, not a water barrier. It prevents the decking from expanding on very humid days by keeping humidity away. During severe storms, felt paper can prevent leaks that could occur if rain is blown underneath the shingles. On normal pitched roofs, 15-pound felt is used because a heavier felt is not necessary for a quality roof. A heavier felt could possibly be seen as an upgrade. On steep roofs, 30-pound felt is suggested, or in many cases, required. Thicker felt paper is used in these situations to prevent it from tearing under foot traffic. It is also used on extremely low pitched roofs because the lack of angle can allow some rain to be blown back under the shingles. Installations of certain thinner shingle products require a special fiberglass felt to prevent wrinkling. Your consultant will discuss this if your selection requires it.
Felt caps are plastic discs with a 1″ ring shank nail attached and are used to hold the felt paper in place prior to installing the new shingles. Green simplex felt cap nails are an industry standard. This is unfortunate because they are extremely hard to see in the grass and are a hazard that can be avoided. Because we are concerned with the safety of your family, we work with suppliers that special order, stock and deliver florescent pink or red nail caps to all of our job sites.
Weather Guard is a new modified bitumen self-adhering membrane designed by quality-conscious manufacturers. This new product is basically a tough 3-foot-wide rubber tape that can be installed around chimneys, skylights, vent pipes, wall flashing, valleys and roof edges. When this product was first introduced, it was called Ice Guard because it was predominantly designed for the prevention of leaks in the northern states that experienced ice damming. This product has been found to be an excellent secondary protection against blowing rain and winds that exceed 60 mph. Consequently, we install this product around all chimney, skylights, roof penetrations, and wall flashings because they are the culprits of most roof leaks. We do not recommend their use in the valleys or rake edges of southern-state homes because there is little purpose for them in those areas, and they are an unnecessary expense.
Pre-painted Drip Edge
Drip edge is the “L” shaped metal that comes in 10 ft. sections and is designed to be installed around the entire perimeter of the roofline. Drip edge prevents the decking from being seen and rests flush with the fascia board and up under the shingles. Drip edge also, if installed properly, prevents the water from running behind the gutters causing deterioration of the fascia board and soffit areas. Special concerns arise if your home has vinyl siding. In certain cases custom drip edge may need to be designed to properly fit and correctly channel water from running behind the siding. Your consultant will suggest specific options if the need arises. Most roofing companies still use galvanized drip edge. This product is an absolute eye sore and very difficult to paint because standard latex house paint won’t stick to galvanized metal. We only use pre-painted enamel finished material that comes in brown, gray, tan, cream and white. The finish can also be painted or special ordered to match any siding or desired color for an extra charge.
Fascia and Soffit Board Repairs
Many customers have experienced water damaged fascia and soffit areas because of improperly installed drip edge and/or shingles. If these types of repairs are needed, now is the time. It is virtually impossible to get to these areas without damaging the roof once it is installed. Repairing these areas later can be very expensive and can cost three to four times the amount of fixing them with the new roof installation.
Our company offers the expertise to remove your existing gutters, repair all water-damaged fascia board and soffit areas and re-paint and install new seamless gutter systems. Being a total solution provider is our way of showing our dedication to customer service.
Seamless Aluminum Gutters
Gutters are an important part of your roof system. If you are installing a new roof and need new gutters, there is no better time to do it than now. Our quality roofing crews and guttering crews are used to working together in a manner that ensures that one is not harming the other. Seamless Aluminum Gutters are manufactured on the job site using a trailer or a truck mounted gutter machine. Except in specific cases, we use a fastening device called a hidden hanger to attach the new gutter system to the home. Properly installed hidden hangers are screwed through the drip edge every four feet and will allow for trouble free operation for over 50 years. Most gutter companies use spikes and furrows (basically big nails in tubes that sag and back out) to attach their systems because of the speed of application. Hidden hanger installations need to be properly coordinated by the roofing and guttering crew. We offer over 20 different colors of enamel finished seamless aluminum gutters. Properly installed, these gutters will last virtually forever and the finishes are guaranteed for 20 years.
Shingle & Starter Application
Installation procedures vary widely between manufacturers, product design and application. One thing, however, is consistent. Installing any product improperly instantaneously voids the manufacturer’s warranty. It is crucial to be vigilant when it comes to following the exact procedures set forth by the manufacturer and to trust your contractor to supervise the application appropriately. Our consultants will be happy to explain any specific application’s procedures for your product of choice.
Hand Nails vs. Pneumatic Nails
One of the big debates is hand nailing vs. air guns and at Centennial Roofing we offer both. Hand nailing may be a little slower, but we feel the extra time is worth it. One of the fastest ways a roofing contractor can VOID a manufactures warranty is to be in a hurry and nail outside the nail line. Attention to detail is what separates us from our competition. Do Not Use Staples For Shingle Applications!!!
$10.00 Will Buy You 100 Years
If your roofing contract does not specify “lead” sewer vents, you will probably get “Auto Caulks” which are neopreme boots that go around and flash your sewer vents to the roof. In the hot Texas summer sun, they will not last as long as the lead flashings. We believe that if a new roof is done right, every accessory will outlast the shingles. That is why we prefer to use lead sewer pipe covers with ring-shank grommet nails and neoprene washers for superior endurance. We then paint the vent to match your roof for a beautifully finished product.
One More Reminder To Check Your Heater Stacks
Heater stack units are usually 4-part systems: the base flashing, a double-walled galvanized pipe, a pipe collar and the cap. Most units, except for the base flashing, can be re-used. We would need to replace single heater stack units in older homes. Your roof consultant will notify you of your particular situation.
We replace all needed heater stack parts and use ring-shanked grommet nails with neoprene washers. This method prevents the expansion and contraction of the metal that causes a vent to pull loose. We then paint your heater stacks to match your roof for a finished look.
The Low Down On Low Profile Vents
Low profile vents are most often used to vent three different appliances: clothes dryers, stove vent-a-hoods, and bathroom fans. They may also be used to ventilate attic areas if other ventilation products are not best suited. Clothes dryers often become clogged with lint if these vents have been used, and lint build-up can be responsible for a fire. We recommend that dryer vents be moved to an outside wall if possible. If not, the vent lines should be replaced every three to four years. For your home’s protection, we replace all low profile vents with new matching enamel finished Lamanco 750 Air Hawks. They slant back, preventing water, snow and birds from entering the vent shaft.
Chimneys and Flashings
Interlacing metal, wood, brick, felt and shingles to create a water tight penetration can sometimes be challenging. The challenge often depends on the condition of the existing chimney. We evaluate each chimney on a per case basis. Proper chimney work can be somewhat costly, but doing it wrong can cost hundreds more. Chimneys made of brick, wood shingles, wood and/or vinyl siding are all handled differently. Your roof consultant will discuss the proper installation procedures for your specific situation. Before the installation of the metal flashing on your chimney, felt paper should be placed up the sides of the chimney. Weather Guard also should be installed two feet around the entire perimeter of the chimney, up the sides and underneath the counter flashing. New galvanized top and bottom pans and step flashings are used in conjunction with ring-shank grommet nails on the bottom pans completing most chimney flashing projects. Counter flashing is metal that was originally mortared into the brick. Unfortunately, these flashings are most often installed quickly and improperly during the construction of your home. If these flashings need to be replaced, we will use a diamond tipped blade to cut into the mortar and will install a new enamel-finished, custom counter flashing.
We design and install custom chimney caps in copper, stainless steel and black paint grip galvalume. Properly designed chimney caps prevent birds from making nests in the flute area creating the risk of a serious back flash explosion in your chimney. We have witnessed the damage caused by a back flash, hot embers and soot blown inside a home is a dangerous situation, not to mention the mess. We receive a multitude of calls on blown off chimney caps that have been installed with concrete nails, making it almost impossible to have the chimney cleaned. To eliminate these problems, we recommend that chimney caps be securely installed with concrete nails and removalable wires for easy cleaning.
Skylights that are installed correctly do not leak. The bad reputation skylights have acquired has to do with the lack of proper installation procedures and final inspections, not because they are difficult to flash. Before the installation of the metal flashing, the felt paper will be run up the sides of the skylight’s wood frame. Then weather guard is installed 2 feet around the entire perimeter of the skylight, up and over the top of the wood frame and properly interlaced with the felt. Finally, new metal step flashings used in conjunction with ring-shank grommet nails on the bottom pans will complete most skylight flashing projects. To complete the installation process, if needed, we install 1inch urethane foam insulation strips to the skylight base support to prevent air infiltration. This is especially important in the bathroom areas. We mask and paint the skylight frame with custom matched paint, then clean the domes inside and out. We offer a wide selection of replacement domes, new skylight and shaft installations. Dome colors available are White/Clear, Bronze/Clear and Clear/Clear. We also offer Velux and Anderson opening roof windows.
Wall flashings account for more leaks than any other flashing on your roof. Water leaking down the inside of a wall can be very damaging to paint, texture, wall paper and hardwood floors. Therefore, special attention should be given to these areas and to the condition of the existing siding. Wood or vinyl siding that is old; water damaged, deteriorated or cracked is difficult to tie a new roof into securely. During the pre-inspection procedure, your roofing consultant will discuss these concerns with you if they exist.
Valleys are extremely vulnerable to leaks because of the speed and high volume of water that they must channel. This is especially true in situations where two roof angles have different pitches and in the case of a “dead valley” where the angle of slope flattens out or has to change directions. Valleys require special care to ensure their watertight integrity. “W” Metal Valleys are designed using 24″ x 10′ pre-painted galvalume steel panels, shaped in the form of a “W” with a 1 inch high triangular diverter running down the center. This metal is interlaced with the new roofing shingles to ensure a water-tight, long lasting and attractive accessory.
Shingle valleys are available in different styles, including Closed Single Cut, Pointed or Laced Valleys. Interlacing the shingles in specific patterns creates each of these styles. If carefully done, these valleys will provide leak free service for a shingle roof’s life span. We recommend a closed valley with 20″ galvanized metal or Tarco Valley underneath to provide our customers with superior protection. The fact that we have had no valley failures since 1985 indicates our success.
Standard Ridge Row
Standard Ridge Rows are generally cut from 3-Tab shingles. This style of ridge creates a very flat and uniform completion to any new composition roof. This ridge is the most economical solution, but the style may not be as aesthetically attractive as the high profile custom ridge.
High Profile Ridge
High Profile Ridge Rows can dramatically enhance a composition roof by outlining the cuts and angles. Most of the major manufacturers offer distinctive ridge row designs that are very attractive. Notice the definition created around the hips and ridges in the photograph provided, and how they add to the homes overall appearance.
Proper attic ventilation is extremely important to the life expectancy of your roof. In fact, homes that are not adequately ventilated can void a manufacturer’s warranty, increase electricity bills and warp plywood decking. Therefore, a “draw” provided by a wind turbine is necessary to obtain proper ventilation.
Wind turbines have come a long way in the last 15 years. Old turbines used to run on a “sharp pencil in a cup” type bearing. The pencil would get dull and start an unnerving squealing noise. Today, turbines use a pre-greased, pre-sealed roller bearing. Your consultant will discuss where and how many turbines are needed to provide the proper ventilation in your attic. We use Kynar finished aluminum wind turbines for durability. They are available in gray, brown and black. To attach your wind turbines, we use ring-shanked grommet nails and neoprene washers to prevent the natural vibration from pulling the turbines loose.
Power vents are designed with built-in thermostats that turn on an electric fan when the attic reaches a certain temperature. They can be very effective if the thermostat is set and working properly. If the thermostats are not adjusted properly, the power vent may not come on at all or run continually until the motor burns out. They are easily set if within reach. Unfortunately, the thermostats are located on the bottom of the power vents, which in many homes is not reachable because of the attic height. We recommend a licensed electrician move the thermostats down near the attic entrance so they can be reset every Spring. If you can remember, and don’t mind adjusting them once a year, power vents are an excellent choice.
Ridge and Soffit Vents
Ridge vents are another choice in ventilation. They work extremely well on vaulted ceilings where conventional ventilation products cannot be used. They are installed over a 4 inch pre-cut gap in the decking at the horizontal ridgelines. These vents are very effective unless used on low-pitched roofs where hard driving rains can cause leaks, or on hip designed roof lines where there may not be enough horizontal ridge to adequately ventilate the attic area. Otherwise, we highly recommend ridge vents for superior ventilation.
Soffit Vents are a key to proper ventilation. Having an adequate number of soffit vents at the overhang allows air passing between the lower perimeters of your attic, then up through the higher elevations causing the attic to cool. When used in conjunction with any of the previous ventilations systems.